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Defender jerky at low speeds

Let's get to the point!! Can am has an issue at low speeds and it should be fixed, I'm tired of spending up to nearly $30,000 on rigs and with known issues as the can am defender crew I bought last year , as I'm about to drive off sales rep says theres a spring upgrade for low speed surging ??? Why not tell me before I paid for it.

I had 4 polaris crews before this and reason I went to can-am was polaris drives get worn out around 3000 miles and then say that's normal ?? So I get a can-am and it's been good other than the surging at low speeds.

Please tell me how to fix this if there is a fix ??? Maybe China rigs dont have these issues. Pretty sad the top sellers cant build a decent rig when you are paying big bucks for there product.

 
I think its just the way the design of the belt and how it engages the clutch all come together. The machine is engineered to have high torque. It makes it hard to load and unload it on a trailer with wheel chock tie down system (the ones you drive over and strap the tires to the deck of your trailer). 

 
As I stated in my two previous posts some jump at clutch engagement is to be expected add to this callibration of the itc (intelligent throttle control) which has a slight delay built-in (no cable to throttle body connection) and some machines will be more jumpy than others. Unless you buy a machine with a torque converter or manual transmission not much will change even when going to other manufacturers with the same type of Cvt system. 

Using work mode slows down the throttle response so the machine is less jumpy on rough ground at low speed. I use work mode and low range for loading and unloading off the trailer and find this works for me since I don't stop when climbing the ramps. I have learned how to control the ITC and barely notice the jerkiness even with 30" tires.

Another poster mentioned that the dealer said there was a different primary spring? I haven't seen the specs on the new spring but if is softer it will engage the clutch at a lower RPM which might work better for a stock machine on a farm or acreage where a stiffer spring would increase the RPM at engagement which might work better for a machine witha heavy load and or larger tires.😉

 
Bummer! It's probably going to be real grabby until it breaks in a bit.
When you took the belt off did the secondary clutch move freely and smooth. Because the rollers in the secondary tend to brake. I know this cause I have a 17 hd10 xt max mine got real jumpy. Pulled the secondary apart found that both rollers were half gone.

 
we had the same issuewith the 2021 we got today until we fastened drivers seat belt.  Jerkiness seamed to go away.  Math have something to do with the governor that kicks in if drivers seatbelt is unhooked.  Maybe worth a try.  I think on my older 2018 defender I jumped around the governor feature.  No jerking 

 
Try a speed limiter bypass plug.  They cost about $6 on eBay.  Jumps around the need to have drivers seatbelt fastened

 
Jus got a 2021 defender… the gas pedal hesitates so bad …. And this thing is so extremely bumpy riding around !!!!  Turned the shocks up today and it is worse!!! Anyone adjust their shocks and if you got good results what setting did you set them at ?

 
Jus got a 2021 defender… the gas pedal hesitates so bad …. And this thing is so extremely bumpy riding around !!!!  Turned the shocks up today and it is worse!!! Anyone adjust their shocks and if you got good results what setting did you set them at ?
The lowest settings on the shocks should be the softest ride. Turning them up will just make them more stiff.

 
Does adjusting the shocks give you a higher or lower clearance or is this just for ride comfort?

 
As you increase the tension on the cam on the shock it increases ride height about an inch from the lowest to the highest setting and also stiffens the ride slightly as you compress the spring. Its easier to adjust the cam if you jack up the machine and let the shock extend. Try the different settings to see what works for you.🙂

 

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