Can Am Defender Max Limited on 32" Rock-A-Billys

[A hunt 2 remember]

I do but how do you get pictures to this site?????

Down below the text screen is a "click to choose files" button. Find the picture file and add it. Did you have to go with a 2" forward front A-arm kit? 

 

[Coyote03]

   I just changed out my stock rims and 27" 'big horns for a set of Sedona Split 6 bead lock rims and 32" Rock-A-Billy tires.  Each new tire and rim combo weighs in at 53 lbs.  The stock rear rims with the bighorns weighed 46 lbs. each.   So I figured I might lose some speed with the increased rotational mass.  However I was pleasantly surprised.  The machine still gps top speed on flat ground at 67 and will now run 70 down hill.  There is obvious speedometer error now but it also cruises better at 50 to 55 mph.  The new tires and rims fit fine even with the shocks on the softest setting.  No rubbing any direction lock to lock on the steering wheel.  The new tires are as quiet or quieter than the factory wheels.  I do notice a little more steering wheel wiggle at certain speed but I have not tried to balance each of the new tire/rim combos yet.  The machine looks as it should have from the factory.  Now it look properly proportioned.  I am sorry for not having pictures yet as it as dark when I finished tonight.  I took it for a 16 mile drive on the blacktop roads around my area and I can say I love these tires.  The power steering is not as strong (obviously) with the bigger tires, and there is slightly more road feedback in the steering wheel.  I am running 12-14 psi in the tires right now but will try up to 20 to see if it improves drivability even more.  This combo is going to be a hot ticket, looks and rides great.  

     I wanted to let others out there questioning what would fit and what would not, to know that this setup works great.  I will post picks soon.

Could you please tell me what kind of rpms you are getting? I’m on 32” Roctanes and only getting 52 mph and 5700rpms. 

 

[Andystoy19]

Two things happen when you change tire diameter, the increase in height of 5" changes the final gear ratio and the increase in tire rotating weight increases the load the CVT sees as it tries to accelerate the machine. If you did a drag race for a short distance between two machines: one with stock tires and one with the taller tires you would see that the taller tire machine is slower and cannot reach the same top speed as the stock tired machine.

The stock 27" tire would travel 84.78" in one revolution, the new 32" tire would travel 100.48" in one revolution. That means that your effective gear ratio is about 18.5% higher so right from engagement the CVT has to compensate by starting off in a higher gear, to better explain; in the days of the 4 speed transmission you are always starting out in second gear (effectively). Since the CVT dosen't have gears to select it stays down in the lower diameter of your primary clutch longer.

The addition of 7 lbs. of rotating weight per tire (7x4=28 lbs/7=4 hp) adds another 28 lbs of load that the CVT has to compensate for, so the CVT does this by staying down lower in the diameter of the primary clutch. The additional rotating weight makes the system react similarily to one that has 4 Hp less.

In summary the CVT system compensates for the change by staying lower in the primary resulting in a smaller contact area for the belt compared to a stock machine resulting in more slippage and higher belt temperatures. The driver has to apply more throttle to start and maintain a given speed so the engine RPM remain lower and the top engine RPM cannot be reached because the CVT is compensating for the additional load.

The only solution is to change the "shift ratio", which is the ratio of the engine RPM and primary clutch shift versus the resistance of the secondary clutch to allow upshift is to change the springs and helix in the CVT system. EPI performance, Outlaw and Airdam clutches have clutch kits based on tire diameter and intended use (trail riding vs mud, rocks or sand) that change the shift ratio to control belt slip(temperature) and allow engine RPM to be more balanced vs the load on the CVT. I have contacted EPI and Airdam and they will respond to your questions and recommend a kit that should improve the performance of your machine. The primary clutch (connected to the engine) usually gets a different primary spring which can affect your engagement and a different spring ratio that affects the final opening (when the primary clutch is fully shifted out) and the secondary clutch usually gets a helix with a different angle to help control upshift and back shift and a new spring that helps the system react better to the increased tire diameter and rotating load. The clutch kit guys do not easily give out start and finish rates on the new springs or helix angles because they consider that to be proprietary information.

If you do purchase and install a kit, please post it in the builds section along with your comments of what you like or don't like about it?

 

[Coyote03]

Andy, I don’t want to hijack this post but could you tell me why I’m seeing other defenders getting at least 6500rpms and over 60mph while I’m barely hitting 50 mph and 5700 rpms? I made a post about it but got no responses. 

 

[Andystoy19]

Stock machines with stock tires have reported top speeds of up to 70 mph, if a stock machine with 32" tires could reach 50 mph (indicated) the corrected top speed might be about 61 mph in your case at 5700 rpm? In my opinion that would be as good as you can expect for the reasons I stated above. Reported speeds will vary slightly as well because of elevation, flatness of terrain, temperature etc. 

A naturally aspirated machine loses about 3% per thousand feet of elevation so a machine at 3300 feet is about 10% lower on HP than a machine at sea level. The shop maual says 7000 RPM is where the engine makes max power.

In my case with 30" heavy tires I reached 50 mph indicated (58mph corrected and 2000' elevation) on a long run that might have been slightly down hill, that is why I am researching after market clutch kits to see if I can delay my upshift a bit and allow the engine RPM to increase a bit for the same speed which will reduce the belt slip and belt temperature a bit as well. The machine will become much more responsive with a good clutch kit than it is now with stock clutching.

If you still have the stock tires and rims switch back to them and see if your top speed increases along with RPM as others have reported, if yes than your machine is running well, the tires changed its ability to reach a higher top speed.

 

[Rudy]

I do but how do you get pictures to this site?????

When you open the reply message or quote message. The box where you type your message there is a CLICK TO CHOOSE FILES. Click on this and add photos from your library. 

 

[Toolboy]

I did not change the A-arms, the 2020 comes with forward A-Arms either 1-2 inches forward of center.

 

[Rudy]

Toolboy, that is a nice looking rig! Those 32’s fit perfectly! 

 

[Coyote03]

Are they forward or just arched like the xmr?

 

[JDK]

Looks good Tooboy. I like it. 

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Ordered my 32's today. Warrior AT's. Plus forward high clearance A arms with super duty ball joints and since I was feelin' ambitious, i bought the deluxe plug n play turn signal/horn kit.... 

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Ordered my 32's today. Warrior AT's. Plus forward high clearance A arms with super duty ball joints and since I was feelin' ambitious, i bought the deluxe plug n play turn signal/horn kit.... 

Hoping this is as painless as they make it sound. Because I will be doing this swap in the woods. Luckily I have a 20lb Co2 bottle to set the beads... But I  always carry a full lineup of tools when in the RV. So thinking I got this! Here's Bear as a before picture here in camp. 

 

[Rudy]

Ordered my 32's today. Warrior AT's. Plus forward high clearance A arms with super duty ball joints and since I was feelin' ambitious, i bought the deluxe plug n play turn signal/horn kit.... 

Let us know how you like the kit. I was looking at this same Super Atv kit a couple of days ago. Installation looks pretty simple. Good luck! It’s definitely going to make a difference on the stock defender! Can wait to see the after pictures!

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Let us know how you like the kit. I was looking at this same Super Atv kit a couple of days ago. Installation looks pretty simple. Good luck! It’s definitely going to make a difference on the stock defender! Can wait to see the after pictures!

The light kit is backordered and will be more like may. But the ground clearance is really what I'm looking for. But considering it's still not legal to drive on the roads. It's for when I'm out of this BLUE STATE and in the RED!! Really though, it doesn't stop me where I'm doing my onroad traveling, it will just be there in case I get a REALISTIC COP... 

But YES!!! I will keep you all posted. I'll most likely start a thread 'turn signal kits' the good, the bad, and the UGLY!!

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Well, tires and wheels delivered to the local RV  and motel here in NOWHERE.... Mounted/aired up/ mounted....(in the woods) Now for the forward A arms.... but I'm gonna run them like this unil monday.... STOKED!!! I LOVE THEM!!! AND THE GC??? BOOYAH!!

 

[Rocky1]

Love the look but I was wondering if you had to use any wheel spacers on the rear.

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Nothing on the rear. With OEM A arms I had to tweak out the bottom of the flare with a wedge of wood and on the downward roll hard on the suspension, it will rub. But I've got the 2" forward arms, just haven't put them on yet. I'm in the woods hunting. Although I did mount the tires and wheels here. Let it be known I have added a Battle Armor 2" lift. (which I  happen to have another... long story) but NO SPACERS

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

Nothing on the rear. With OEM A arms I had to tweak out the bottom of the flare with a wedge of wood and on the downward roll hard on the suspension, it will rub. But I've got the 2" forward arms, just haven't put them on yet. I'm in the woods hunting. Although I did mount the tires and wheels here. Let it be known I have added a Battle Armor 2" lift. (which I  happen to have another... long story) but NO SPACERS

Well, had some extra time and bought yet another grease gun. (Mini sized) and installed the A arms. LOVE THEM!! #superatv Rides smoother on the gravel roads. Seems to handle the corners a bit better without wanting to swap ends.. and the wooden wedgy is gone with PLENTY of clearance. Could have gone 34's if not for the rancher bumper. Oh, and it looks BAD @$$!!!

 

[Rudy]

Well, had some extra time and bought yet another grease gun. (Mini sized) and installed the A arms. LOVE THEM!! #superatv Rides smoother on the gravel roads. Seems to handle the corners a bit better without wanting to swap ends.. and the wooden wedgy is gone with PLENTY of clearance. Could have gone 34's if not for the rancher bumper. Oh, and it looks BAD @$$!!!

I just installed 32’s on my maverick sport but tried them on my defender first and they barely cleared while turning. Does the super atv a-arms give extra clearance on the front. I love the look of the 32’s on the defender. 

 

[A hunt 2 remember]

I just installed 32’s on my maverick sport but tried them on my defender first and they barely cleared while turning. Does the super atv a-arms give extra clearance on the front. I love the look of the 32’s on the defender. 

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Pretty sure!! They move the wheel forward 2". I'd call them and check. But I'm pretty sure they are what you're looking for. Oh, and they are twice as BEEFY as the OEM arms