Yeah this is great content. Sweet setup by the way- hands down best one I’ve come across. I have a Lonestar on order and should be here in March. I am looking to do pretty much same tire and wheel set up. Haha the only thing I’m nervous about is ensuring that the rear wheels/tires align with the front wheels/fires. I’m guessing the 1” spacer is the solution?Thank you! Been a while since I have been on here. Yes, the tires clear with no rubbing at all. Let me know if you have any other questions!
Yeah your exactly right! Sold my commander back in September knowing we needed a rig with more seats... it’s been a lonely 6 months. Haha with the 5-2 offset, what’s the total width? We’ve got a few trails here in Utah with posts buried in the ground to limit wide vehicles like trucks and jeeps.Thanks Jason! It’s been a lot of fun building it to this point. Wheel and tire setup I’m running have been very impressive. I would recommend this combo to anyone. I run them at 8psi. Yes, the 1” rear spacer got my wheels as close as possible to the same width.
Best of luck when you get your new machine!! I bet March can’t come soon enough for ya! If you have any questions, let me know.
Sweet! That will be perfect!Just measured it... 68” front and rear. Maybe add an inch or so to both sides for tire sidewall bulge. I would say no more than 70” true overall width.
This is great news. Dealership wants $1200 to install ($1200 includes the Corbin signal kit, horn, Ghost Signature lights, mirrors, and rear view mirror.). But I’m sitting about $800 to buy it all myself. Trying to determine if their work is worth $400 haha. Sounds like I’ll be doing it myself!Good looking combo you have picked out!
I did all my modifications by myself. The Corbin setup was pretty easy. I’d say it was a 2 or 3 on the 1-10 scale of difficulty. Pop the dash cluster out. Removed the two floor panels in the middle of the cab that cover the coolant lines and wiring running to the rear and just start fishing it through. You basically remove most of the factory wire harness and just follow the same path for the Corbin kit. One word of advise... lay it all out on the floor before you start to make sure you have the right direction and right lengths running to the correct lights. For example, the rear tail lights run along the rear passenger side upper frame rail. The one running to the rear passenger brake light has a shorter pigtail than the one cutting across to the driver side. Seems like common sense, but I ran these wires and somehow had them reversed.
Awesome. Any specific spacer recommendation? I think you had a 5-2 wheel offset but the 4-3 should require the same spacer I’d image.Yea for $400, I’d be doing that project myself for sure. I have more peace of mind knowing that I took the time to run stuff right and make good connections, etc. Dealers, not all of them, have been known to cut some corners along the way. I also enjoy getting to know the machine. Gaining the knowledge of how things are put together can help you out in the future.
yes, wheel spacers are super easy. Just have your torque wrench handy. One side note for you on the wheels... these use the tapered lug nuts to center the wheel on the hub. Make sure the taper is seated correctly in the wheel before you tighten them down. If the aren’t centered, you could damage the tapered “seat” of the wheel. This will make sense once you get them.
Will do! Thanks again for answering all my questions. It’s great to know good people are out there.It should use the same 1” in the rear for yours to even it out. Your machine might end up in the 70-72” range with the 4+3 offset. I posted a picture in an upper post of the spacer I used. I don’t know if you saw it or not. Keep us posted as you get everything put together. I’m excited to see it!!