You have certainly done a great job on adding electronics but have you measured your total load on the system when your lights start to flash? The fact that you are not blowing any fuses tells me that no one circuit is over loaded. The magneto on these units is 650 watts and since this is a 12 volt system that equates to 54 Amps at 4000 RPM and above. Below 4000 RPM and back to idle there will be less amps available to charge your system. There will be about 50 Amps available if the battery is fully charged which indicates that about 5 amps is used to keep your engine running. Ignition system, (fuel pump, dash and display etc.) but only at 4000 RPM or above.
Your DPS (dynamic power steering) also uses amperage to provide steering assist. It is on a 40 amp fuse and could draw up to 60 amp instantaneously when you peg the steering against the stop. During normal road crusiing it will use very little amps but this load still has to come from the battery or the magneto. The heater motor will also draw amps depending upon the speed setting etc?
If you have a clamp meter clamp it over the positive battery cable and try and take some readings while adding load by turning on more electronics. If your load approaches or exceeds 40 amps you are heading into the area where the magneto can not provide enough currant to power the accessories, the house load and charge the battery. If you don't have a clamp meter or a volt meter that can measure amps to each circuit, use your volt meter to monitor the voltage at the battery(s) to see where it drops to. For example with no load at 4000 RPM you could read 14.4 volts but this number will likely be lower with more load and reduced RPM. If at full load you read 13 volts or less than you do not have sufficient load to charge the battery and have just enough amps to power your total load. Adding a larger battery like and odyssey PC585? will increase your reserve but not solve your total load issue although it will provide currant longer before you discharge it. If you have the original 30 Amp battery and have added an auxilliary 30 Amp battery you should have sufficient reserve already? You did not mention that your batteries were discharging so it tends to point to the problem as too much load on one circuit.
If you can run your volt meter on the circuit that starts to blink and see if the voltage drops below 12.5 volts, if yes your electronics may be over heating because the voltage is too low.(Some electronics do not tolerate low voltage, they overheat). One of the solutions might be to reduce the load on that circuit by putting it elsewhere and see if the problem is solved? Another way to check this circuit would be to turn on the stereo by itself and see if it runs normally or starts to blink? If possible carefully touch the wire from the power source that feeds this circuit, if it is hot you are carrying too much currant for the wire size? I hope my verbage has not confused the issue but provided you some ideas to check out and find the problem?
My local dealer has NO CLUE and BRP said I couldn't add the dual battery/isolator with my heater unit. If fitting/positioning was the reason? I get it!! I mean I made mine fit with what was supplied. But would think a slightly different wiring kit with a position under the passenger dash or in the battery compartment could be totally possible. Thanks for your time and input Andy!!!
