Engine quitting need help HD10

[adam]

Good day!

 I was hunting in the winter and while driving my HD10 2019 just quite running. The temperature gage showed it was overheating. I checked the coolant it was good. We let it cool down and it would not start. Took it in to get checked out at a canam dealer, they couldn't find anything wrong.  The only thing I could find was a issue with the commanders, had a safety module that would stop the engine automatically if it was starting to over heat.  

  Yesterday I was out in the bush and it did this to me and wouldn't start. Had to tow it out od the bush.  Last weekend went on a tour with 6 of us no issues. Yesterday it was just me and it did this. Again the coolant was full. It seems like   electrical issue. Reason I say this it started smoking underneath the steering wheel then stopped.  

  Before wasting a ton of exploratory money on trying to figure out what the problem was I was hoping someone may have experienced similar issues and has resolved it, or someone may know what the issue is.

  Thanks in advance!

 

[Andystoy19]

If the dealer didn't find any codes that is strange? Does your rad fan cycle normally?The defender has a derate function that is supposed to reduce engine power and put you into limp mode so that you don't damage the engine. Relay 1 and a 25 Amp fuse located in the battery area below the passenger seat control the fan motor, check those first. You could pull each one out to check and reinsert to make sure you have a good connection and no corrosion especially if you have been in water deep enough to submerge the box.

How did you get it to start after towing it out? The smoke under the dash would indicate a wiring or gauge issue? Did any of the dash functions cease after the smoke? The 2nd fuse panel is under the front hood under the black cover.

 

[adam]

So I got it to start by letting it sit and cool for 30 minutes.  Then it started but only traveled a km then engine slowed to limp mode then stopped altogether.

  I will definitely check the fuse area.  

  my lights were working, I did t check the winch button though. I should check that

 Thank you for the suggestions.  Yeah I thought it was weird they didn't find any codes either.

 

[Andystoy19]

Its possible that you have a faulty temperature control sensor it is a 2 prong sensor located on the LH top of the engine behind the cylinder. You can disconnect the wire plug and put an ohm meter on the two prongs sticking up, at 20C or 78F you should read a resistance of 2280-2740 ohms. If the reading is out of the range you may need to replace the temp sensor if its in the range than its possible that the ECM is defective but that is above my pay grade?

If you start the engine and let it idle the fan should cycle on and off once the engine is up to temperature not sure if that is happening (mine is fairly loud)? Also check your guage display you should see the temperature bar(s) start to show and increase as the engine temp goes up? If your rad fan doesn't cycle it would point towards the relay or the fuse being bad.

 

[adam]

In regards to the rad fan, that was my question initially as I dont here it cycle on and off. I have had to resort to leaving the controlled fan on all the time to blow out hot air.  I thought that was working until yesterday, I was only at 2 bars on the temp gauge then the engine shut off. I think your right with the relay, I had replaced the fuse already.

  I believe this is my temperature control sensor. It looks like it is cooked?  What do you think.

 

[Andystoy19]

The sensor you are looking at is the exhaust temperature sensor and it is probably just fine.

If you take the engine for a drive, get the temperature showing on the guage and the rad fan doesn't come on after 3 or 4 bars than you have probably narrowed it down to the rad fan? You say you replaced the 25 amp fuse was it blown or was it good? If the fuse is good it is probably relay 1 which is in the same fuse box just above the rad fan fuse. Take it out and push it back in several times just to be sure the contacts are clean, if the fan still doesn't come on it is either the relay or the fan motor but I would expect to blow the fuse if you have a motor problem?

The coolant temp sensor is forward of the area you are looking on the inside of the head nearest you and has 2 wires, if the engine went into  limp mode and stopped it is doing something but may be out of range or fine if the fan doesn't cycle?

My first priority would be to get the fan motor cycling than you can chase other possibilities such as the cts or the thermostat, water pump. Make sure your rad is full so that there is no air trapped in the system. If you were in deep water or mud when you had the problem the first time was the rad fan under water, if it was and the motor tried to turn on it may have blown the 25 amp fuse but the dealership should have discovered that? The relay may be intermittent so the only solution may be to replace it? Be sure to check the fan motor connections for good contact. See what the dealership recommends? Advice should be free.

 

[adam]

I will follow up on these.  

 The fuse wasn't blown but for what the cost was I just replaced it. Now that you explained where the relay is. I replaced that too.

   I will have to run it as you suggested without having the fan controls on and see if the fan is working on its own or not.

 Thank you!