Finally got the cog in on Friday, so I figured I would post pictures of it finished up.
First I needed to get the inner racers of the bearing off the main track axel. I used a puller to do this.
I cleaned that up and then put the bearings into the aluminum track housing.
Again I have upgraded to SKF bearings, and plan on doing the other tracks when I pull them off for the summer, unless I hear/feel vibration from them before hand.
I used a bearing press to put them in. I talked to a few people and they said a large socket over the bearing.
After watching the videos on Camso bearing replacement from UTVTRacks.com I followed the advice and put gear oil in the valley between the bearings. After seeing the camso design and 3 bearing system and ease of maintenance I think on my next machine I will get them instead.
Then I put the main hub outside on my porch for about an hour in -20 to make it a bit easier to put in. Took a fair bit of force to get it into the bearings. I did take a bearing press sleeve to hold the outer bearing in the casing as I persuaded it thru. I didn't get a photo but their is a washer and snap ring that go it. BRP says the rounded edge of the snap ring faces inward.
There is a seal for the back of the casing. To get it flush with the casing I used a 45 angled trim removal tool with a flat head to tap it flush.
Then the cog mounted onto the main axel plate. These are torqued down to 18lbft + 2lbft
There is then 3 tore screws on the rear to put the cover plate on with "Apache 360"on. This I have a bit of a beef with Can-am to even check the bearings you would need to pull the entire track off the machine just to be able to unscrew these. This is not good for preventative checks in my opinion. In the Camso as you can see in the video you can easily check without needed to get behind it.
Then we put the assembly back into the the track. As I had a failure I never had to adjust tension to remove the assembly. If I was doing this prior to a failure I would just remove tension and replace the bearings without removing the aluminum housing. We put it back in and torqued the 8 bolts on the housing to spec 35lbft + 3lbft
Overall not a terrible job to do just frustrating, and almost nothing on the interweb about doing these 360LTs so I figured I would share. If doing this without a failure I assume you will need a bearing puller to remove the old bearings.