Battery has 13.6V. The dash lights up when key turned to "ACC", but lights won't turn on and winch will not operate. When key turned to "ON" the dash goes out, no lights and it also will not try to turnover. All fuses that can be visibly checked, under hood and under back passenger seat, appeared good and ohms were checked on multimeter reading 0.00.. Only the relays couldn't be ruled out.. Given the scenario laid out above, what specifically should be my first spot to check voltage at in order to pinpoint the problem? Is the bus bar under the dash an area that would help getting voltages from?
2019 Defender Max HD10 Not Cranking, No Lights - Good Battery
- Thread starter ChetB
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Andystoy19
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I believe the bus bar under the dash supplies voltage/current to your dash and overhead switches. The fuse box under the hood is referred to as Fuse box 1 and the one under the rear seat is called Fuse box 2. Your engine is supplied from Fuse box 2 so start there and start checking for voltage across the fuses etc. Your starter solenoid is next to Fuse box 2. Check there first and if there is voltage on the battery side you could jumper the solenoid (if you know how to see if the starter kicks in). You should hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key on??
Your battery voltage is high unless its a LiFePo4 battery. Hook your volt meter to the battery and check the voltage to see if it drops when you turn the key on especially if the fuel pump turns on and if the starter solenoid causes the starter to click but not turn over.
Check your relays and if they are the same try switching a couple and see if that works put some tape on each so that you know where you started from.
Check the battery cable connections to make sure they are tight and not corroded. Check your ground connections they may be corroded?
Your battery voltage is high unless its a LiFePo4 battery. Hook your volt meter to the battery and check the voltage to see if it drops when you turn the key on especially if the fuel pump turns on and if the starter solenoid causes the starter to click but not turn over.
Check your relays and if they are the same try switching a couple and see if that works put some tape on each so that you know where you started from.
Check the battery cable connections to make sure they are tight and not corroded. Check your ground connections they may be corroded?
So, the dash ONLY lights up when the key is turned to "ACC", as it goes out when it's turned to "ON". Headlights, light bars and winch WILL NOT operate (Turn ON) with the key turned to "ON" or even "ACC", just the dash gauges light up in "ACC"...
Battery connections are clean, solid and tight.
Voltage only dropped 1/100th when key turned to "ACC". 13.25 to 13.24... No movement when turned to "ON" or trying to crank.. (Which it doesn't even try to crank)
I ordered new relays for ALL located in the 2 fuse boxes..
I just wish that given the scenario laid out above, that it would scream exactly wear the issue is? It almost tells me that the ignition switch is not allowing power to pass in the "ON" position, but that doesn't explain why the dash lights up but the lights can't be turned on in the "ACC" position?
Battery connections are clean, solid and tight.
Voltage only dropped 1/100th when key turned to "ACC". 13.25 to 13.24... No movement when turned to "ON" or trying to crank.. (Which it doesn't even try to crank)
I ordered new relays for ALL located in the 2 fuse boxes..
I just wish that given the scenario laid out above, that it would scream exactly wear the issue is? It almost tells me that the ignition switch is not allowing power to pass in the "ON" position, but that doesn't explain why the dash lights up but the lights can't be turned on in the "ACC" position?
