Talked to the guy I did the work for. His shuts down when he hits the brake. No take over. Which would make sense. The ignition doesn’t know they key is in the ignition, other than the tumblers adjusting when the key is inserted to turn the cylinder to the desired position.
Tanner, follow my relay pin guide for ignition and starter. It’s a couple posts up. I labeled each pin and where it should go. You’ll have to use a relay for each, ignition and starter.
then accessory you isolate with a relay,
86 goes to the positive output from the remote starter.
85...
87 goes to ignition from remote start
87a goes to switch/key side of ignition on vehicle
30 goes to away side of ignition
86 to constant 12v
85 to ground while running from remote start
If that clears things up
I ran a 10 gauge fused wire from battery under the passenger seat, under floor, and up under the dash.
the ignition and starter wires rest at ground, are interrupted and then powered. So if you power a wire that rests at ground the ignition fuse will blow.
Ignition without the DESS is easy to check ignitions. Use a test light. Accessory has power without key on, once key turned to acc, the wire will lose power (test light goes out). That’s a negative accessory. Ignition wire will have power when turned to ignition and starter wire will have power...
So I have an 18 defender that I’m going to attempt a remote start. I am a Compustar/ArcticStart dealer/installer. I’ve done hundreds of vehicles, never a side by side. I’ve pulled the ignition switch out to test ignitions. I’ve got 12v, ignition and starter at the key. If I wire them straight...